Savarez Alliance KF
String Info Page
1) The Savarez Alliance KF fluorocarbon string has an ‘HPK’ in front of the string diameter for their part number specification. For example the part number for the blue .91mm string is “HPK91B” (see right). Please order by part number.
2) String gauges HPK105 and larger are available in 2.0m lengths, which enable you to get two string lengths from each one. The designation ‘A’ after the gauge is the 2.0m length. (i.e. HPK150A)
3) For the strings HPK74—HPK91, only one string length can be obtained, as they are only 1.0m long. The smallest strings from HPK45 to HPK69 are usually long enough to allow at least two string lengths, possibly three, depending on how much string you use for your windings & knots.
4) From time to time a string supplier might be backordered on some particular gauges of string, however it is permissible to use a gauge larger or smaller on the chart (i.e. replacements for HPK81 could be either HPK77 or HPK86).
5) You will notice that the strings from the HPK160 to HPK101 are composed of strands of fibre, and have the look and feel of gut, so they are sometimes referred to as ‘synthetic gut’. Do not get alarmed if you see these strands separate a bit at the tuning pin when you are winding the string up to pitch, as this is a normal occurrence. As long as they don't separate past the bridge pin you're OK.
6) You can expect some string breakages per year as normal, but if a string continually breaks at the bridge pin or soundboard string eyelet, there may be a burr or sharp edge that is causing abrasion, thus a weak point on the string, and that is where it will break eventually. To remedy this, you'll need to get some abrasive cord and run it along the contact surfaces a few times to smooth them out. I recommend Mitchell's Abrasive Cord for de-burring, which is available from Dave Kolacny (author of the book 'Troubleshooting Your Lever Harp'), or Lee Valley Tools ( www.leevalley.com ) . The abrasive cord is available in several sizes: #51 (.055"/1.4mm), #53 (.044"/1.1mm) and #54 (.030"/.76mm), which roughly correspond to the groove sizes in the bridge pins and inside diameters of the soundboard string eyelets.
7) Because fluorocarbon does not dye well, the colors red and blue that Savarez dyes the strings with may tend to wear off after a bit of playing, especially in the thinner blues & reds in the upper octaves. One remedy for this is to use a permanent marker to re-darken the color. New info: The latest batch of Savarez strings has a much better dye job, and they seem to resist the wearing away of the colour better that the previous ones.
String Changing Tips:
Stretching In Phase
As fluorocarbon initially stretches more than either nylon or gut, a ’stretching in’ phase is necessary, so here's some tips on installing new strings on your harp:
1. After tying the ‘harp knot’ down at the sound board, pull string taut through tuning pin hole leaving no slack.
2. Holding the string taut, wind it on the pin a turn or two then overlap to 'lock', and then a few turns till it begins to tighten up to pitch.
3. After a day or so of tuning, you might have 5 or more winds on the tuning pin (this stuff really stretches!). If the number of winds is excessive, the string might be pushed off the bridge pin when you engage the lever. To guard against this, unwind the string back to the tuning pin, and gently tugging on it to take up that last bit of slack, rewind on to pin (using the 'lock'). Bring it gently back up to pitch, and trim the ‘tail’ back to about 1/4” past the pin hole.
4. One way to deal with excessive string winds on the tuning pin is to use a technique I learned from pedal harpists, who use rather large diameter gut strings in the mid-range of their harps. The idea is to wind the string 'over itself' as much as possible, and the way I do it is to start this 'over winding' on the turn after putting on the lock, when you can lap the string between the first two winds. As you continue turning, the string will tend to have a more compact winding, and not coil quickly toward the neck, which might create an extreme angle to the bridge pin.
5. For strings that need to have a ‘harp knot’ tied to the end, insert the string through the soundboard from the outside of the harp, then reach into the box and pull through enough to tie the knot. Toggles generally only need to be placed into string knots if the string is .86mm or less. Sometimes a burr on the end of the string (caused by the cutting pliers) will prevent it from easily going into the hole, so you might need to cut it at an angle, to ‘sharpen’ it.
6. The strings in the upper reaches of the treble are very thin and slippery, and the knots can sometimes not hold. Rick Kemper, on page 11 of his online tutorial 'Making the Lever Harp', has some nice drawings of harp string knots, as well as other useful tips: http://www.sligoharps.com/guide/11Book.mht .